The Light in Dark Times

As Joe so poetically put it- our journey down the West Coast presented us with some soul-wrenching experiences... luckily, those times of introspection and social/political contemplation were contrasted with sunset beaches, crashing waterfalls and family reunions when we needed them most.

HUGE thanks go out to:
-Denise and Hershel for showing us a good time in Portland (CONGRATS on your engagement you two!),
-Ari and Anni for the most delicious meal-out of the trip (check out thehumblebeagle.blogspot.com for their latest culinary endeavors)
-Ben and Buffy for the story-swap (We send our blessings for your coming birth, Baby Lenth)
-Alena for her promise to come and visit us in Whitefish this winter (which we're holding her to),
...and to Alexis for impeccable timing. I love you sister.

Another major highlight of our time in Oregon was the boom town of Bend (now 80,000 people... a burgeoning Boulder). We found rest and some favorite creature comforts there... taking in Where the Wild Things Are (an Ed Psych Major's dream of a movie)... tearing up the miless and miles of SICK mtn biking terrain... and taking care of the rig (i.e. an oil change and thorough vacuum session).

After an epic all-day push, we crossed Eastern Oregon and arrived in the mountains of Idaho (ahhhhhh, mountains again). A plethora of hot spring hippie dips await, and the Sawtooth Range is righteous!

Our BIG NEWS: We've decided to return to Whitefish and hunker down for the winter! Joe has lined up a job on Big Mountain as a snowboard instructor, earning us each ski passes! I will hopefully fulfill my dream of working at a coffee shop (and there is the coolest little version there- check out montanacoffeetraders.com). We plan on arriving there within the week! Whose coming to visit?? Big Mountain is known for it's fluffy pow.....

So with love from Sun Valley,
Zozo

The Pacific Northwest...

Without darkness there cannot be light… It is in the darkness that our soul, our true self, has the opportunity to expand and evolve. It is in light that our spirit soars high, finding wholeness and oneness. Our body, spirit, and soul is the trinity of our conscious existence and it is in the search for balance between these three where we find true peace and happiness.
It was the darkness that greeted Zoë and I on the coast of the Pacific Northwest, down through Washington and into Oregon. It was the echoes of the abundant life that once lived in such harmony. The fish of vast seas, animals of the forests, and the spirits of the trees and healing plants that once rained over this beautiful land were now only visions of the past, flashing in the shadows of those trees that survived. Now in the place of this world, massive chimneys bellowed smoke upon the ancient beaches. As I listened to the waves crash, stories where told of balance and harmony and of the ancient people who called this place home, and how clear cutting -a destructive, intellectual idea- has rapped the forests of spirit, diverse life, and balance. As the rain fell from the stumps of ancient giants who carried wisdom unknown to the hand with the saw, it was as if tears fell solemnly to the ground. As we walked through the great forests, that were somewhat protected from this blind hand of destruction, the souls of the trees cried out as their brethren continue to be torn down for profit. The new régime- not living in nature, not even living with nature- conquers nature in the name of economic stimulus. I could not help to imagine or to dream of that time long ago… a time of balance between body, soul, and spirit, and of the individuals who once hunted the land, fished the seas, and found health in the plants. The light of my spirit became hidden from me in the darkness I was experiencing.
The imbalance we have created in this region is intellectualized, and peace is found in the rational mind. We now believe and teach our children that the intellectual-critical mind is what should guide us through this world, rather than attuning to the intelligence of our heart or the wisdom of our soul. Those indigenous to this area, once so attuned, are now oppressed and sent to live in exile on Reservations beneath the shadow of the genocide of their elders. Now, two ill States, dependent on logging, are manifesting symptoms in the form of methadone addiction, crime, and the abuse of nicotine and alcohol.
Yet through all this darkness lies hope, an opportunity for our souls to dance once more. As one of our great teachers explained to us in Eugene… “There is light in dark times!” As the world becomes more extreme and polarized each day, we as individuals have the chance to shine light into the darkest of places. I know that the answers we are looking for are not found “out there,” but rather deep down inside each of us. It is my hope that each of us find the courage to take the plunge deep within one’s self… for what lies within our own darkness is dangerous and troubling… it is what we despise the most in others… it is what we try to destroy in our enemies. However, if we find this courage… if we can teach our children this courage… our images of enemies, fears, and destruction may someday be recognized as mere illusions and fade into the past. Then, we may find the guiding force of love lighting our way in times of trouble and conflict. The soul will have done its work, for a time, and the spirit will once again shine and soar, as each individual continues to discover balance within our own body, spirit, and soul.

Coffee... Friend or Foe?

For so long I have criticized the coffee bean and it’s trendy little corporate buzz-biz known as Starbucks… But long days driving the rig down lonesome highways with the wife at my side and my loyal dog at my back have changed me. This once loyal tea drinker, clear and focused, standing like an oak tree in a hurricane would never bow at the hand of a Mint Mocha Frappuccino blended coffee with Chocolate Whipped Cream, a Pumpkin Spice Latte, or a hot cup of French Roast. I was blind to what was about to happen… Like an Apache scout or Ninja master, the Vanilla Latte has stealthily snuck its way back into my once-peaceful tea drinking life. Much to my own surprise I have decided to lower my sword and take off my armor… Defeated, I again have become a coffee drinker. My days now are filled with ups and downs, blood shot eyes, and minor mood swings… I’ve fallen off the wagon! So the picture above goes out to all of you Venti-Carmel-Macchiato-on-the –fence-with-skim–milk-drinking-Starbuck’s-lovin’-folks and to rest of y’all… It was taken in front of, that’s right, the first ever Starbucks known to man or women! Drink up coffee lovers… drink up! ~J~

Orcas Isle

It's late.... and I think the pics speak for themselves on this one. I love island life. We stayed an extra night.... and slowed waaaayyyyy down.

Auntie E- the hammock is perfect. ~Z~











Pics:
1. Joe atop the highest point on Orcas. (There is a fresh water lake below him and the Puget Sound with islands in the back)
2. Morningtime
3. Cooper and the ocean view from camp
4. Groovy backpacking chick sherpa-ing gear to the site
5. On the ferry

Pikes Peak Market

As Joe and I left Orcas we were filled with a sense of foreboding... how long will this amazing trip last? Which way should we go from here? What else is in store? What are we doing?

Have you ever asked yourself these questions in the midst of an epic journey you long will never end? True to form, however, we did not indulge these anxieties for too long and jumped head first back into the stream of consciousness that is the open road.

Merging onto the Five, we settled in for the longest stretch of Interstate driving so far on the trip. The goal was to buzz through Seattle (why navigate a city when there's mountains to be had?) and make it most of the way to Olympic National Park by the afternoon.

On an impulse I began searching for health food stores in the greater Seattle area that maybe carried a few coveted cooking items we'd ran out of. As serendipity would have it I found a Whole Foods on the corner of Denny and Westlake, exit 104. The driver was game, and it seemed easy enough to maneuver our 35ft rig down the city streets into the grocer's parking lot (the far and open end is a premium we're constantly in search of).

As we pulled off the exit, a gigantic REI loomed before us, and as any gear-worshipper would do, we re prioritized, confident that this installment would have just as roomy a lot as it's Denver counterpart. Oh wait... we're in a city.... as we passed the underground parking structure with 7 foot clearance. And again, as serendipity would have it, three blocks down was a space long enough for 4 cars- perhaps we are meant to stop here? "You know, I've always heard that the market in Seattle is amazing...." "You mean the one with all the fish?" "Yeah. Let's go check it out." "Can we walk from here?" "Oh, sure! It can't be that far...."

And it wasn't! Especially when you take the trolley... once you figure out which direction you want.... So here are Joe and I on the trolley going the wrong direction, (but getting a lovely tour of Seattle) down to one end and then back up to the other. Walking a few blocks amid sky scrapers and coutour shops, over a little crest of the hill with water glistening beyond.... then down the steep embankment and into the rainbow-strewn Pikes Peak Market. What a surprise! What a delight! The sights and smells, the art and music, we were in heaven! With a little lunch in the park at the end, watching chess hustlers and tugboats, and an incredible impromptu song from some local soul brothers (catch the link on FB), we were totally energized. How silly country mice are to write off the city so fast. Seattle we love you and we'll be back!
~Z~
p.s. the halibut we cooked for dinner was unparalleled!

The Ocean’s Edge

One of the most exciting and delicious moments of traveling occurs late in the afternoon, after a full day of adventure, when you pull into the place you hope will be your home for the night…perhaps you’ve read about this place in a book, perhaps you’ve found it on the map but know little else, perhaps a friendly local has dropped a piece of beta just big enough to sink your teeth into and get your bearings… perhaps it’s perfect… and so it went for Joe and I this late afternoon, after waking up perched high in the Northern Cascades, after crossing a mountain pass amid fall foliage and flurries on the high peaks, after arriving at the Pacific Ocean and picnicking inside Kody watching kite boarders off the coast. A friendly local- in no rush at all- answered my query about a campground I’d found on a map by saying, “That’s a nice place, and so is Washington Park… there’s a nice scenic loop at the end of a peninsula, and the camping will be cheaper out that way….” It was exactly what I’d been fishing for…. the insider’s tip.
And so with such lovely butterflies that I put two pigtails in my hair and began to dance as soon as we rounded the corner out of the mellow local’s sight, the McCaffrey Clan end up nuzzled into a verdant, soft and peaceful grove of the largest old growth we’ve seen yet. So excited, we hook up the camper, crank down his feet and tear down a trail heading right into the setting sun. The ocean at last!
Looking out on the San Juan Islands, with the ferry chugging by, I feel so at home, and favorite childhood books rise from my memory; The Island Boy (Barbara Cooney) and that one about the silkies… No sooner had I returned to those pages, than a seal popped its rounded and smooth head above the waves to peak at us!
As the sunset colors fade and a FULL moon rises in the east, Joe and Cooper lead me back home for fajitas and to pack…. for Orcas Isle awaits tomorrow and a new home for the night, maybe two…. and another delicious moment to come. ~Z~

And so ends the first leg of our journey- The Mountain Stage
And begins the second leg- The Ocean’s Edge

We send so much love to all those reading…and send a special blessing to Christina and Marcio who prepare to soon give birth. We are with you dear ones. May the passage be grounded, blessed and so, so awake. Also to Caitlin and Jeff who prepare to receive their adopted baby boy! We so look forward to meeting him! xoxo

Oh, Canada...

After a wonderful stay in Whitefish Montana (one of the most inviting and kind communities I’ve ever set foot in) we were off to the Canadian Rockies! As we crossed the border I bellowed… “Oh Canada… My home and native land… True Patriot love and something, something, something!” From there we found ourselves cruising through the most gorgeous river valley, surrounded by majestic peaks on our right and left. We ended the first day in Canada with a long soak in Radium Hot Springs (thanks Dom and Wendy!). These springs sit at the base of a canyon at the doorway to Kootenay National Park. It was such a magical spot… you could almost see the spirits of the native people, who once wandered this sacred place, floating among the concrete and fifties-style architecture that now engulfs this tourist attraction. After a long soak and our favorite dinner, BBQ chicken drumsticks, we hit the sack, a quick recharge for the next mountain adventure.
The following day we awoke early, excited about our unknown journey in foreign mountain territory, and set out into the heart of the Canadian Rockies. We stopped along the way for a five-mile afternoon hike to an enormous glacier that carved and sculpted the mountains above us. The hike was refreshing…following a crisp and clear mountain stream to the foot of the glacier. Along the way we found moose tracks as we crossed over the stream before the final ascent. We ended the day at Mosquito Creek campground with a warm campfire and a yummy bottle of wine.
We awoke the next day with our heart set on getting deeper into the Canadian wilderness. So we packed up our gear, laced up our boots, and headed nine miles into Baker Lake. The hike was filled with color and the first snow of the season. The Larch trees were at their peak, and the mountainsides were speckled with the bright color of gold dancing among the neighboring pines. After what felt like a short stroll through the woods (at an elevation lower than Nederland!,) we arrived at our designated campground for the evening. Our camp sat at the edge of a mile-long lake that was surrounded by jagged rocky peaks. It wasn’t long after our arrival that two friendly Canadian fellows, Bird and Brent, as well as a crafty fellow from Whitefish named Charlie, greeted us (what are the chances?). Campfires were not allowed at this specific campground, but that was not gonna stop this wilily group of outlaws from putting together what would be the jolliest little community campfire that side of the border. The wind was howling and the snow was falling, but the fire and the laughter of our new friends kept us warm. These guys also kept our bellies full with spider dogs (spider dog, spider dog, does what ever a spider dog does). Which is basically the cheapest Canadian pork hot dog you can buy, sliced at both ends, put on a stick, and held over the fire until the ends curl.… turns out we budgeted way too little food for the two night stay and ran outta fuel the first morning… so these dogs were much appreciated! All in all, we missed Kody and it was COLD up there… so feeling satisfied with our effort we cruised back down the trail to the warmth and kush of the camper and the Canadian consumption junction Banff. Are we getting soft out here on the road? We’re starting to wonder…..